From the peaks of Montenegro and Macedonia to the mountains of Bosnia and Romania and the underrated Sharr Mountains in Kosovo, the Balkans offer many alternatives to Europe’s costly and better-known Alpine ski reports.
Some of these destinations are not for the faint-hearted, but still offer a reward for adventurous tourists in search of wild landscapes and fascinating history.
Others, although small and compact, are surprisingly well equipped and are deemed hidden gems by connoisseurs.
Bosnia – Home to Three ‘Olympic’ Mountains
Bosnia’s three “Olympic” mountains, Jahorina, Bjelasnica and Igman, are ready to welcome tourists in 2019 – some of whom who might want to re-live memories of the 1984 Sarajevo Winter Olympics.
The three ski resorts have over time turned into the backbone of winter tourism in Bosnia. Jahorina was listed among the top 10 best small and affordable ski resorts in Europe in 2018 by the UK Guardian.
The authorities are trying to improve the infrastructure in the region by building a 10-million-euro gondola at Jahorina and at the nearby Ravna Planina ski centre on Mount Vlasic, also known as “Bosnia’s Kitzbuhel”, in homage to the fashionable Tyrolean resort near Innsbruck.
Starting the 2019 season, Jahorina also has artificial snow equipment, to keep the slopes in shape for as long as 120 days. In the past few years, Bosnia has had several dry winters followed by several snowy ones.
“Our record was in 2017, when we had more than 180,000 skiers on 35 kilometres of tracks. We hope to have even better results this season,” Dejan Ljevnaic, director of the Olympic Centre Jahorina, told the daily Nezavisne on December 5.
Bulgaria – Famous Resorts and Hidden Gems
Boasting 39 different mountain ranges, each with its own charm, Bulgaria remains relatively underdeveloped in terms of ski tourism. Only about 1.2 million foreign tourists visit the country in winter, compared to about 4.5 million who came to the Black Sea beaches in June, July and August last year.
Bansko resort in the Pirin Mountain remains the most popular winter getaway for ski enthusiasts, benefiting from large-scale, albeit controversial, investments and the introduction of world cup championships.
But the “hidden gem” of Bulgaria’s winter sports is Borovets, a small town only 72 kilometres from Sofia. The price of accommodation varies from apartments that can be rented for only 20 euros per person per night to luxury hotels that could cost up to 10 times more.
Daily gondola cards cost between 30 euros per day for adults and 16 euros for children. The weekly card costs 170 euros for adults and 80 for children. Night skiing is as cheap as 12.5 euros.
The oldest winter resort in Bulgaria, Bansko, founded in 1896, boasts 58 km of slopes. On the northern slopes of the Balkan’s highest mountain, Rila, the small town is located at an astonishing 1,400 meters above sea level and skiers can go up to 2,600 meters on chairlifts and gondolas.
On the subject of chairlifts, in October, Bansko exchanged its old four-person cable car for a new, six-person car, costing 6 million euros, which takes more tourists up the slope quicker and using less energy.
For those who prefer other winter sports, the resort also hosts a biathlon and cross-country track as well as night pistes and snowboard slopes equipped with various rigs designed for tricks.
Kosovo – Only for the Truly Dedicated
Trip Advisor describes Kosovo’s most famous ski resort, Brezovica, as small and short of facilities. Located near the western city of Prizren,in the Sharr Mountains National Park, it served as back-up for the 1984 Sarajevo Winter Olympics.
Tourists also say that although the drive up the mountain is spectacular, the two-lane road is often crowded and parking spots on arrival are scarce.
But snow-covered Brezovica is still an experience for those who want to get off the beaten track, despite the abandoned mansions and dodgy ski lifts that might or might not function.
Long known to professional skiers for its steep slopes, the resort remains undeveloped because of the dispute between Kosovo and Serbia over the former’s independence. Both sides claim ownership of the asset. As a result, all attempts to privatize and regenerate the resort, including a 410-million-euro deal in 2016 between MDP Consulting and Compagnie des Alpes and the government of Kosovo for a 99-year lease, have failed.
Macedonia – Land of a Famous Duo
Macedonia is a mountainous country with several regionally known ski resorts.
The two most famous are Mavrovo and Popova Shapka, located in the west of the country. Popova Shapka is on one of Macedonia’s largest mountains, Shar Planina, close to the northwestern town of Tetovo. Offering skiing and snowboarding, the resort comprises several hotels and weekend houses and boasts some 30 km of slopes, with nine ski lifts to get there. The slopes are at a height of 1,708 to 2,525 meters and the entire area is located in a national park.
Mavrovo offers some 40 km of slopes and has 14 ski lifts. The great landmark of the area is the big artificial Mavrovo lake, which contains a sunken church, dedicated to St Nicholas, which can be admired from the slopes. All significant accommodation facilities are located around the lake.
Built in 1850, the church was submerged when the lake was built in the 1950s. However, due to droughts in the past two decades, it has largely appeared out of the lake and now can be part-glimpsed along one of its shores.
Montenegro – Wild Charms and Deep Snow
Montenegro is famous for its rugged mountains, medieval villages and a narrow strip of beaches along its Adriatic coastline. Žabljak, the highest located town in the Balkans, is the gateway to the beautiful Durmitor ski area, where a “bad winter” means a layer of snow that is less than 2 metres deep. Some five kilometers from the town centre is the Savin kuk ski centre.
The local tourism office insists that this season both ski lifts are working – after tourists on Trip Advisor in previous years complained that they often malfunctioned.
In 2019, tourists can go snowshoeing on a 6.5-km trail through the woods between Savin kuk and Black Lake, or try Nordic skiing at the foot of the ski slopes. A one-day pass cost 15 euros. Children pay half price.
Kolasin, the other ski resort, in central Montenegro, is better maintained and is only 90 minutes’ drive from the capital Podgorica, depending on traffic. Built in the Yugoslav era, it was not very developed, as most people preferred Žabljak or Kopaonik in Serbia. The resort was re-equipped in 2008 and its two main hotels rebuilt. Kolasin is a good place both for beginners and intermediate skiers, but more adventurous skiers can also find freestyle tracks and unbroken snow.
Serbia – Range of Winter Wonderlands
Serbia has many winter resorts that provide a welcome escape from the city. Kopaonik, by far the largest, offers about 55 km of runs for alpine skiing and 12 km for cross-country skiing. Trip Advisor users say it is good for intermediate skiers who love adventuring through the snowy forest. The beer is also good, they say.
While Kopaonik is the biggest resort, Zlatibor, in the southwest, offers more variety of things to do off the slopes, such as museums, caves, waterfalls and other landmarks.
Tornik resort is on Zlatibor’s highest peak, with runs rising from 1,110 to 1,490 metres above sea level. Trip Advisor users say it is excellent for beginners and intermediate snowboarders. It offers many skiing schools for children and equipment rental shops.
Elsewhere, Mt Tara sits well inside the Dinaric Alps in the far west of Serbia. Its declaration as a national park in 1981 means its almost 20 hectares of wild beauty remain intact. It is a must for hikers. It is not really a ski resort. Although it takes some effort to reach the peaks, from there one can see Banjska stena and Orlov, all the way to Macedonia.
Locals meanwhile are fond of Divcibare resort for weekend getaways. Some 120 km from Belgrade, about three hours by bus, it is smaller than Kopaonik and Zlatibor, but has everything that beginners as well as experienced skiers should need for a short stay.
Croatia – Slopes on the Edge of the Capital
Croatia is the homeland of Janica and Ivica Kostelic, winners of gold and silver Olympic medals. A well-known summer vacation destination, Croatia can be fun in winter, too, despite the brief snow season and modest terrain.
Locals and tourists ski in Sljeme, right on the edge of the capital, Zagreb, as well as at Platak, close to Rijeka, the gateway to the islands.
On Sljeme, on the top of Mt Medvednica, one can ski just 20 minutes from the centre of Zagreb. Sljeme is also known for “Snow Queen” World Cup ski race.
However, the relatively low altitude means temperatures often rise suddenly, so winter joy on Sljeme can be short-lived. For that reason, Croats traditionally prefer Austria, Italy or Slovenia for winter sports.
Romania – Something for Everyone in Carpathians
Romania has dozens of ski resorts in the Carpathians, with a variety of slopes to fit all abilities. Poiana Brasov, in central Romania, is probably the best known and easiest to reach. Well equipped, it has plenty of parking space and many hotels and restaurants.
Modernized in 2010, the ski area has been expanded to 80 hectares and the slope length has increased from 13.8 to 24 km. It is equipped with snow cannons and several ski schools offer lessons for beginners.
Located about two hours away by train from Bucharest, several resorts in the Prahova valley in the Bucegi Mountains – Sinaia, Predeal and Busteni, are easily within reach as weekend getaways.
Sinaia, also known as the “Pearl of the Carpathians”, was well known in the early 20th century as the summer residence of the royal family who resided in the Peles Castle, a baroque masterpiece which is now a museum. Sinaia’s ski slope is located at between 1,400 to 2,000 metres and is reachable by car and cable car.
The Balkaninsight
