From Gucci’s power suiting to a gameshow that inspired Jeremy Scott for this season’s runway for Moschino, Jo Jones picks her 10 highlights from the autumn/winter 2019 shows
Jo Jones
Sat 23 Feb 2019 10.17 GMT
Romance was in the air at Prada, albeit between Frankenstein’s monster and his bride. Miuccia Prada’s show, entitled Anatomy of Romance, opened with a model who resembled Wednesday Addams storming the catwalk. It followed with plain coats, jackets and dresses, then a jolt of print – here, a heritage fabric skirt suit peeled off the shoulders, some floral-print skirts and a version decorated with 3D flowers. The colour palette went from dark to bright white. Suiting came detailed with large patch pockets, while jackets, coats and trousers came in military green. It was Miuccia at her best.
The Gucci invitation, a large plastercast mask, arrived in a wooden crate. Post-show, Alessandro Michele talked about the metaphor of the mask – a face on show but hidden at the same time. Spikes were a key motif, and like the 80s exaggerated shoulder worn with baggy trousers, could be seen as a defensive symbol. Michele’s famous aesthetic – experimental theatre, texture and colour – were prominent, too, as was a check that appeared on cocktail dresses, suiting and sweaters. These looks, interspersed with lace, showed gender fluidity was still key.
Alessandro Dell’Acqua seems to be on a similar path to spring summer, deciding the back view of his collection is as important as the front – maybe more so. The exit of a satin red dress followed by an emerald green were head-turners, particularly when detailed with a giant bow. Zip detailing exposed a hidden layer or an undergarment worth admiring. The opening tailoring and trench coats were noteworthy, as were the embellished LBDs, a party girl’s go-to for all occasions.
Lucie and Luke Meier’s exploration of the masculine/feminine look was pushed further for autumn via silhouette, colour and fabric. Dresses had an elongated sculptural shape, creating a sharp graphic silhouette in masculine suiting fabrics. The softer side was explored with knitted dresses appearing alongside detailed crocheted corsetry touches. Light silk and satin coats were cut sharply at the shoulders and draped over relaxed trousers. The collection had a pure, sensual feel, with necklines, sleeves and splits revealing the body.
Glamour, power-dressing and clothes that allow the wearer to shine provided the mantra for Max Mara’s latest show. Opening with a punch of colour in all-over looks of cyan, cerulean and corn-yellow, the models walked in groups of three. Strong shoulders, boxy silhouettes, knee-length skirts and trousers that grazed the ankles were worn with thigh-high boots. Luxe outwear came in camel tones bound by leather. The whole show was nicely contrasted with a heritage print from the archive, reimagined.
Giorgio Armani’s show notes claimed that opposites harmonise, and the event focused on experimenting with proportion for AW19. Oversized outerwear was layered over feminine dresses, or teamed with latex-effect leggings. Neat tailored jackets were worn with relaxed wide-legged trousers. Contrasting materials created texture, most notably organza inserted into jackets, trousers and a denim jumpsuit. Mid-section, the dresses and blouses took on the role of a canvas awash with a delicate freestyle print.
This was the final collection Karl Lagerfeld designed for Fendi, after working there for 54 years. There was a heavy atmosphere following his death earlier this week, but the collection had a vibrant palette and an irresistible lightness. It opened with a neat bow-tied shirt and double-breasted tailoring, accessorised with tights scattered with the Fendi logo. Neutral tones followed, but it was the bursts of colour that lifted the mood – in particular, a pleated patent-leather skirt in azure, a leather coat in terracotta and a knife-pleat skirt in daffodil.
Jeremy Scott took The Price is Right gameshow as the theme for AW19, complete with a revolving red Ferrari star prize. Models in bouffant wigs played to the audience, each look as wittily genius as you would expect from Scott. A finale “TV dinner” saw dollar-bill prints on dresses and a neat skirt suit. Crystal-embellished dresses came in a cleaning-product print, while faux fur resembled a game board. Finally, there were bags in the shape of a cash register, an iron and cleaning spray.
Daniel Lee’s debut catwalk collection for Bottega Veneta brought a modern aesthetic to the Italian label. Highlights included a simple leather shift dress, polished quilt skirts and coats sculpted the silhouette. The label’s signature Intrecciato leather weave appeared as a white-and-chocolate textural coat. Knitwear was layered over skirts and pared back as a body-sculpting dress. Most looks were finished with a chunky ankle boot.
Sportmax defined new volumes for AW19, emphasising and playing with curves and contours. Oversized bomber jackets, double-faced coats, blazers and skirts combined two patterns – tartan and stripes. A trench coat with a leather vest could be transformed and split into two and worn different ways, and this theme ran throughout, including a suit created by mixing two joinable pieces. The looks were styled with a new streamlined, shaped sneaker collection.
Francesco Risso has certainly found his groove, opening with a double-breasted grey masculine blazer and knife pleat skirt. Silk deconstructed/reconstructed belted jackets with inserted shoulder panels felt modern, as did the plaid and check fabrication. His signature side draping fluid skirts and the tack and pin, work-in-progress design of his dresses were spliced to create texture. Check wool fused with panels of silk are gathering Marni a loyal following. Graphic computer prints on folded and twisted silk closed the show.
Photograph: Yanshan Zhang/Getty Images
Pre-show Donatella said: “I think a little bit of imperfection is perfection.” The return to the grandeur of the 90s, the dichotomy of luxury and grunge, was reflected in the deconstructed knitwear’s unfinished raw edges, clasped with a safety pin complete with medusa head. Tweed mini skirts and dresses were overlaid with bondage straps and left raw at the edges, mixed with acid bright silks and house prints splashed over jackets and coats. The matted wet-look hair was clipped with Versace barrettes.
Photograph: WWD/REX/Shutterstock
