How to cook Veal Pojarski

Time 1 hour

This retro indulgence, called Pojarski de veau (veal Pojarski), was supposedly a favorite of Czar Nicholas I. It gained popularity in Montreal after the city hosted Expo in 1967. It is made with diced veal, mushrooms and butter, formed into a plump, flat-topped meatball and then stuck with a roasted bone, so that the dish looks like a chop but tastes richer and more tender. On any given day in the Joe Beef kitchen, the dish might also include ends of charcuterie, bacon, ham and seared duck livers; its essence is the succulent combination of cured and cooked meat.

INGREDIENTS

• ¼ cup dried porcini mushrooms
• 4 tablespoons unsalted butter
• 1 shallot, finely chopped
• 1 clove garlic, minced
• ¼ cup torn, day-old white-bread pieces (no crusts)
• ¼ cup of milk
• 8 ounces diced roasted veal, pork or beef
• 8 ounces ground veal
•  Leaves of 1 thyme sprig
• 1 egg, lightly beaten
• 1 teaspoon salt
•  pepper
• 2 clean veal or lamb chop bones (optional; available at butcher shops)
• 4 thin slices bacon

PREPARATION

1. Soak the mushrooms in warm water to cover until soft (about 30 minutes), then drain and coarsely chop.
2. Heat oven to 450 degrees.
3. In a large skillet, melt 1/2 the butter over medium heat. Add the mushrooms, shallot and garlic. Cook, stirring, until shallot is translucent and soft, about 5 minutes. (Do not brown.) Transfer to a plate and set aside to cool for 5 minutes.
4. Soak bread in milk for 15 minutes, then lightly squeeze dry.
5. In a large bowl, combine porcini mixture, soaked bread, roasted meat, ground veal, thyme, egg and salt. To taste for seasoning, heat a small skillet and fry a chunk of the mixture until browned. Add salt and pepper to mixture, to taste.
6. Divide the mixture in half and shape each half into a ball, with a slightly flattened top and bottom. If using bones, poke a hole in one side of each ball and stick a bone into the hole.
7. Put the remaining 2 tablespoons butter in a heavy baking dish and gently lay the balls side by side. Lay 2 pieces of bacon on each and roast for 30 to 40 minutes, basting every 4 or 5 minutes, until sizzling and fragrant. Remove bacon for last 5 minutes of cooking. Serve hot.