Pulling all-nighters in the run-up to a catwalk show is a well-known practice in the fashion industry. For Moschino’s creative director, Jeremy Scott, at his Milan show this week, even that was not enough – or so he would have us believe.
“Fashion today moves so darned crazy fast,” the show notes informed guests. “It’s accelerated to such a lunatic pace that Jeremy simply didn’t have time to complete the collection. [He’s] been working like a trouper and only sometimes grabbing a few hours’ shut-eye on his sketching desk. But the fashion calendar stops for no one.”
The statement was, of course, not true, but Scott was making a much bigger one. The increased speed at which the industry is moving, and fast fashion – the theme of his first collection for Moschino in 2014 – are pressing issues.Since then the designer has not shied away from making social and political statements with his designs, exploring themes such as conspiracy theories, body image and recycling.
This time, skirt suits were printed in rough felt-tip sketches. These scribbles covered everything from from hats to tights and varied from leopard to fashion figurine designs. Elsewhere, the Moschino teddy-bear mascot came illustrated on T-shirts, while another of the house’s signatures, chunky gold chains, were drawn on tracksuits, mini dresses and swimsuits.
This ingenuity was mixed with the whimsical as specific objects from the atelier morphed into runway looks. Huge metallic pattern-cutting scissors formed the structured silhouette of an evening gown; a thimble became a hat; and a ruffled tape measure transformed into a floor-length scarf. One model arrived carrying a roll of fabric still attached to her dress – the ultimate poster girl for this collection, entitled Unfinished Business.
Scott is no sloucher. In addition to heading up the menswear and womenswear at Moschino in Milan, he runs his eponymous label from New York, and this year he has added a collaboration with H&M. The collection, which will be unveiled in October, presents Scott with a chance to reach a new audience at a lower price point. “I thought it was the perfect opportunity for me to deliver further what I wanted to do when I first came to Moschino with the french fries phone case,” he said, referring to the entry-level accessory that became a cult hit.
For more read the full of article at The Guardian
