Have you noticed there’s a quiet vinegar revolution happening? Ever since we learned the importance of good gut bacteria, delicious, good-quality vinegars have started to reach a wider audience. I now know at least a dozen chefs, including myself, making their own at home with the dregs of wine (see Cult Vinegar or Vinegar Shed for starter kits). Good vinegar adds a magic sparkle to cooking – once you discover this, you’ll never look back.
This smoky, herby, sparkly salad makes a vibrant topping for the mellow beans. It benefits from resting overnight, if you have time.
Prep 20 min Cook 1 hr 10 min Serves 4
3 aubergines 4 garlic cloves Salt and black pepper 1 small handful fresh oregano (or 1 tsp dried) 2 tbsp chipotles en adobo (or 4 tsp smoked paprika) 5 tbsp olive oil 30g butter 1 large onion, finely chopped 80g lardons (optional) 2 x 400g tins black beans, drained and rinsed under cold running water 2 fresh bay leaves
For the fresh tomato salsa 4 tomatoes ½ red onion, finely diced Juice of 1 large lime 1 small bunch fresh coriander, stalks finely chopped, leaves roughly chopped 2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil 1-2 tsp good-quality sherry or white wine vinegar
Heat the oven to 220C/425F/gas 7 and cut the aubergine into medium-sized chunks about the size of an ice cube. Meanwhile, peel two of the garlic cloves and bash in a mortar with a teaspoon of salt. Work in the oregano and half the chipotles (or smoked paprika) until you have a rough paste. Pour in four tablespoons of the oil and season generously with black pepper.
Put the aubergine in a roasting tray and coat well with the oregano and chilli oil. Roast for 35-40 minutes, until soft and caramelised, stirring a couple of times during the cooking.
Meanwhile, melt the butter and the remaining tablespoon of olive oil in a large casserole dish, then add the onion. Sweat over a medium heat for 10 minutes, then add the lardons. Finely chop the remaining garlic cloves, add to the pan, turn up the heat a little and cook for another five minutes, until the fat has rendered out of the bacon.
Add the black beans, bay leaves and remaining chipotle or paprika, cook for a few minutes, then add 200ml water and stir. Cook for 10 minutes to allow all the flavours to mingle – this gets better if you leave it to mature overnight.
When you are ready to eat, blanch the tomatoes in boiling water for 30 seconds, then drain and peel. Cut them into wedges, then into cubes, and toss with the onion, lime juice, coriander and olive oil. Season with salt and pepper, and add a pinch of sugar if the tomatoes are lacking flavour. Toss the aubergine with the tomato salsa and check for seasoning – add one to two teaspoons of vinegar for acidity.
Serve the black beans in a bowl or platter topped with the aubergine and the fresh tomato salsa. If you prefer, crumble over some lancashire cheese or feta, but I like it as is.
I love to toss the aubergine salad into warm Camargue red rice, quinoa or couscous for part of a meze spread. It is also delicious with a whole roast fish. The beans are a favourite at Wahaca – serve them with anything from barbecued chops, grilled lobster, chorizo oil or just a drizzle of sour cream and a grating of sheeps’ cheese.
For more read The Guardian
